Friday, February 25, 2011 — A shaky awakening

A little after 7:00 this morning, we were awakened by shaking and quivering beds. All were in the courtyards in no time. I looked around Mimi's and my room and didn't really see any spot under which to take refuge. So I joined the talkative group outside. It turned out to be a 5.7 quake centered in Veracruz. Don't yet know much more about it except that there evidently was very little damage anywhere and I don't know if if was volcano based or not. Well, I guess that's an exciting way to begin the day. We Californians seemed to be somewhat less phased by it than some others, but I have nothing but respect for such events until they turn out to have after shakes or not. I'm of course hoping it was a single kind of thing.

Four of our group are leaving Oaxaca today. All Canadians. It's been so great to have this extended visit and exhibits with them this year. I'll be quite sad to see them leave. JP, Yael, Mimi and I take the 10:00 bus back to Mexico City tomorrow. We'll have a couple of days there and then JP, Yael and I will board the night bus for our trip back to Puerto Vallarta. I didn't take any photos on the way from Mexico City to Oaxaca. Somehow I was so intrigued with the scenery, I didn't want to interrupt my viewing. But of course I was continually sorry, after the fact, that I hadn't recorded this or that spectacular volcano or arroyo or trees, etc. So I'll try to hit some kind of happy middle ground between obsession and restraint on the way back.

Last night we had a festive dinner at La Biznaga (one of Yadin's favorite restaurants, I hear). It is evidently very popular with locals and visitors. It has a retractable roof to accommodate all kinds of weather. The food was some of the best since I've been here and reasonably priced. I had ceviche that was done in larger chunks than I'm used to in Mexico and it was to die for. The marinade had all kinds of strong and subtle tastes, not all of which I could identify. But it was so good! I finished with a bowl of Aztec tortilla soup which was also delicious but wouldn't have been really necessary, the ceviche was so satisfying.

Oaxaca is a great walking town. Our hotel is about eight to ten blocks from most things I'm interested in. One can usually choose a shady side of the street to navigate with comfort. I was coming through the Zocolo to meet the gang for dismounting our show in the early evening yesterday. All other times I had been going to the Textile Museum from our hotel's direction and found it with ease. But this time I approached from the opposite direction. I won't bore you with every detail (there were too many) but I actually missed the entrance three times. It drove me crazy. So I finally stopped and asked a waitress in an open restaurant. She didn't know and began asking people. I received all sorts of false leads even though a hotel attendant had marked it on one of his local maps for me. Those maps don't show every street between main ones so there's lots of room for misunderstanding. While watching the waitress, a young Japanese couple stopped to see if they could help. I thought I had convinced them that I really knew where it was and that I'd be fine. But I followed the advice (against my better judgement) the waitress had received from some unknown inner expert, and walked around the block to another street and ended up just below the Zocalo and no museum, which I'd been certain of but too desperate not to try. Then I turned around and found that the young Japanese pair had quietly followed me through that whole attempt. They didn't speak very much English so it was great fun trying to communicate. I thanked them profusely and tried to convince them that I'd be alright. About that time a young Mexican woman began taking an interest in the situation. She looked at the mark on my map and decided that it was definitely at the place marked if only we could find it. She started doing the backtrack with me and then slipped into a tienda and asked a young man what he thought. We showed him the map and he said it definitely was where the hotel man had marked his X. The he said he'd show me. So the girl and her friend accompanied me back to where I had passed it near a corner at least three times. Voila! As plain as the nose on your face. I was exhausted from all the false starts and walked into the labyrinth of the museum to our exhibit with great relief. I met Eric Chavez there and he ordered me a nice glass of cool water and then a second one. Bit by bit, I got over it, but as I recreate the whole thing, I can hardly believe it could happen.

As I was waiting for the others to arrive I met a young man who seemed to be taking great pleasure in looking at our exhibit. We talked and I answered some questions. I eventually introduced him to Eric Chavez (the education director) and they arranged to meet again today at 5:30 for him to get all his remaining questions answered. It seems he is from Vancouver BC and is planning on emailing a review of our show to a university newspaper or magazine. Really nice that the show is getting so much positive attention. And very nice that this man is from Canada because that is the last planned venue for our corn pieces. We will be caravanning up there this September.

Thursday, February 24, 2011 — Time in Oaxaca and back to the Textile Museum

Today I am doing necessary errands, searching for a duffle bag in which to bring back the textiles I have bought. When I return, I'll tell you about my favorite restaurant, the little treasures I have acquired and the planned taking down of our exhibit to be followed by dinner with Eric Chavez and the director of the Textile Museum. Chao.

Wednesday, February 23, 2011 — Another great tour to villages with Ericlages with

This is just a teaser intro to keep my dates in mind because my battery is almost out. Wednesday we met Eric at 9:00 again outside of our hotel. We drove to a town about an hour away to visit the workshop of a backstrap weaver and her family. Abigail and her mother greeted us warmly and "Mama" kneeled on the stone floor with just two layers of cloth for ease. She donned a sturdy leather back strap and began demonstrating the weaving of a fine, narrow band using a rigid heddle as her basic shed making device. More when we're recharged.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011 — Big day and evening at the textile museum

It would take me a month to fully describe the Utopian situation we were introduced to at the Oaxaca Textile Museum on Tuesday. We were scheduled to meet with Eric Chavez, the director of education, at 11:00. As soon as I saw him I realized I had met him at the San Jose Museum for Quilts and Textiles in California several years before. Eric is delightful, well versed young man who is full of creative ideas for the present and future of this new museum. My battery is running on reserve, so I'll have to stop here and return later in the day.

Monday, February 21, 2011 — Off to Teotitlan de Valle

Elaine had arrange for us to be picked up at 9:00 by Eric, an extremely knowledgeable tour guide. During the day we learned only a little about this well informed ex-pat, but he was more than generous with his facts, experiences and inside stories about Oaxaca and environs. He obviously gained entry for us to places we might well not have otherwise seen.

As soon as we turned off of the main highway to start up the hill into this village of superb weavers, we could tell that we were entering an unforgettable place. We drove up to a high spot with an inspiring view of the valley and lower part of the town. There, we pulled into an unused parking area devoted to a beautifully situated but currently abandoned bed and breakfast. We all got out of the van and made ourselves comfortable to hear what promised to be a half hour history and ethnological info lecture which included a brief description of the role played by the Oaxan people from very early times. We were given some basic hints about proper behavior and manners that would be appreciated by the amazing people we were about to visit.

our first visit was to a large compound featuring a full scale precision dyeing facility using Ciba Gygy acid dyes that is also a thriving weaving studio specializing in large and small Zapotec rugs. We were allowed to photograph anything and ask questions of the weavers ourselves or when that didn't quite work out, have Eric pass on our requests. Every phase of the processes taking place at this site was generously shared with us, including different color and form joinings, post cut-off practices and any finishing questions we came up with. Lastly, we were led down to the show room where Mimi immediately fell in love with a gorgeous large rug. While she was making her decision of whether or not to buy this beautiful weaving, mescal made by the family was served to all who wished to partake. I suspect that doesn't hurt to loosen up the pocket books and complete sales. It was very pure tasting and I thoroughly enjoyed my sample. Mimi decided to buy and we were off and running.

Next, we drove down the hill to a very special women's project to hear an overview of. It turned out that this is the same Womens' group that we had been visited by at the Mendocino Art Center several years ago. They are a truly admirable group I will try to describe in a later entry. I bought a banner and a rug that is destined for placement in the pond house. I was so happy to receive a clearer understanding of the goals and scope of activities of this admirable group of women. We agreed that Pacific Textile Arts and the Womens' group will maintain contact with each other and perhaps embark on some mutual projects. There is much that we can learn from them and working on some projects together could be mutually beneficial.

We moved further on down the steep hill and arrived at a candle making household. Entry into this magical courtyard put us in the midst of fruit trees, turkeys, both adult and junior (they are so cute), and we were warmly greeted by the candle maker and one of her small daughters. We were led into a shed area where a small fire was heating several pots and partially completed candles were hanging. Our hostess demonstrated and answered many questions about the process of making all sizes of candles. Then she showed us her methods of making elaborate flowers for decorating some of the candles. It seems that they are a required item at the time of an engagement or rather at the time during which negotiations for an engagement are arranged. The more and the better the candles and their adornments, the more productive the deal for the leason. Fascinating.

We moved to another area where there were gigantic candles hanging. These are quite valuable and used for very special ceremonial purposes. All the candles are made of bees' wax and I later spoke with several people who keep bees. So that answered the question many of us had.

Lunch at another weaving household followed the candles. This, like so many we visited, was a multi-generational operation and after greetings, we moved on to where Abuelita (Grandma) was making large red tortillas over an outdoor stove. They showed us the whole process including the use of lime to add the proper qualities for creating a complete protein. We watched this warm and friendly woman begin "spreading clamp" and finally to the special tortilla cooking pan. We moved on to the table which had been prepared for us and ate a fabulous meal of vegetable soup containing some veggies I knew and some nettle like greens I didn't recognize. It was delicious. Next came a mole with a large hunk of chicken. It was the first time I have actually tasted a small clump of Mexican chocolate in a mole. It was like finding the golden ring while riding on the merry go round, A semi-sweet gorbanza dessert finished the meal and several fruit drinks furnished the "bebidas."

We departed giving muchisimos gracias and drove further down to the valley flats in the town. Our destination was the home and workplace of a couple who weave and do a great deal of natural dyeing. Gracious Maria gave us a marvelous talk about the available plant and insect dyes used by her husband. There were numerous natural dyers among us so this was absolutely fascinating. She demonstrated her cochenille grinding and preparation on a flat stone. I had learned to do this in Denmark with a morter and pestle and obviously this is quite an improvement to what I had learned. Many other plants and materials were discussed and the yarn skein results were viewed before we moved into the showroom where more than one person succumbed to the purchase of another rug. I bought two copies of a book this couple has had written about their work — one for me and one for Pacific Textile Arts. They were taken from me and I followed Maria as she took the books into the weaving studio for her husband to sign. They think of everything.

A visit to a local cathedral completed this enormously educational and pleasurable tour with the most well informed, empathetic and enthusiastic guide I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. I also very much appreciate the fact that he has a firm policy of not taking "kickbacks" from the artists he takes people to. This is evidently rare and ensures the traveler a "fair" price when they are purchasing. Safe journey back to Oaxaca City and a successful search for a good place to eat ended the day.

Sunday, February 20, 2011 — Off to Oaxaca, a spectacular trip

Sunday we boarded our bus with considerable security precautions being practiced. Many were patted down, each piece of luggage was looked at and I had to open many little compartments before being waved on. The bus was brand new looking, with a toilet at the rear of the bus and generally very comfortable. It took some time to actually exit this gigantic city but there are always things to see and compare. Eventually we were outside of the city and passing all kinds of interesting agricultural sites as well as one or two of the much written about habitats built for people who were formerly squatting illegally or living in three sided lean-to's. They definitely looked comfortable and designed with appealing windows. Well attended gardens showed much evidence of group pride.

It didn't seem like a long time before we were entering classic foothills. The pine trees in Mexico all seem to have long beautiful needles. Soon we reached views of volcanoes, big and small. Skip would definitely have gone wild looking a some of these vistas. Eventually we were actually in the midst of those mountains that had just seemed so far away. Deep gorges became the rule and looking down over the cliffs is something I only indulged in occasionally. There were clever passing lanes where the road split off to our right and we drove for a few minutes on a double one way situation. Sometimes these passing situations were almost as scary to be on as watching cars trying to pass on the standard "slight view" situations. But we made it! Before I knew it we were heading into the outskirts of a mountainous city. The traffic grew heavier and heavier and then I learned about the strange criss-crossing lane directions that I understand is used in other places. But I had never seen it before, so it was fun to watch it all happen. Suddenly, at a stop light, the north sided traffic lanes would cross over to the left side of a center divider. Knowledgeable people have told me that this system has actually improved the safe movement of traffic.

After we arrived at the clean, modern bus station, some of us went straight to the ticket counter to buy our return ticket for February 26 to return to Mexico City for two nights. The other half of us went to the bano and that was when things began to fall apart. Some thought we ticket buyers had just disappeared, (probably in a taxi they thought) and when we had tickets in hand and turned to find the others ....... they weren't there. Yael went up the stairs, paid the requisite fee and searched the restroom with no success. We finally had to decide that the others had gone, so off we went. Turns out the other group, who were sitting in the comfortable courtyard of the hotel, had not heard anything about our getting tickets and, seeing us nowhere, decided that we must be gone already. That was only the beginning of confusion hill. Two of our rooms had been rented out due to some confusion about the confirmation and our date of arrival. As a result, half the group was forced to move on to another hotel. I'm due to walk to the textile museum now, so I'll return to you later. Our tapestry exhibit reception with discussions begins in an hour. If this causes some questions, it is actually Tuesday and I am trying to catch up on this journal. Chao.

Saturday, February 19, 2011 — The marathon begins ...

What a performance city!

Besides having museums seemingly in every block, this town has been absolutely bustling since we arrived. As I said yesterday, the indigenous market was an event to behold yesterday. I know I already posted a pic of the dancers that came to El Tuito to bless Dr. Aotle new museum next to Casa Tejedora. But I feel I must add one to it because of all the incredible memories associated with that visit to the market. So you're getting one more and I have movies of the same people for those I'll be seeing when I get back.

Today, right after breakfast we began an all day museum marathon. That's not always the way I like to do it, but we have only until 9:00 a.m. before we leave so it was all for the good and infinitely exciting. We started with a walking tour near our hotel checking out the Jose Cuervo Museum. Cuervo is a painter, sculptor, print maker that JP and Yael have been watching for some years. He bought a magnificent, palacial town edifice and remodeled it with exquisite taste. He exhibits his own work there and schedules the work of others on a regular basis. The building is classic colonial with three floors and gracious colonades. A mixed group of singers was rehearsing for a musical program that was scheduled in the beautiful ground floor court at 1:00. Unfortunately we couldn't stay on for that. We spent about an hour checking out the exhibit of a Cuban painter now being featured. I liked his work a lot. We followed the owner/painter/propriator's work through some forty years and I found it quite interesting but a bit more gorey than I was in the mood for.

We moved on to a museum which houses some amazing Orozco murals. There is a current show of his paintings and early black and white work. I've actually never seen much black and white Orozco so that was truly revealing for me. What a master of line and dark and light as well as being a fine designer with a vibrant sence of patterning. The building there is also a thing to behold.

Our next stop was at Frida Kalo's Casa Azul. What a tranquil and yet bribrantly alive place that is. Seeing her studio, inner living quarters, including a kitchen I'd love to have for my own,, was entirely satisfying. Her work is so evocative and heart breaking all at once. I actually can only take so much of it at one time. It was marvelous to see her vast collection of photographs taken by her and by others in her family, including her photographer father.

After a length but interesting trip across town, we arrived at the Dolores Almeda museum. Her collections of Mexican folk art as well as probably the best of both Frida Kalo and Diego Riviera, were probably the peak experience of the day. She had Kalos that are totally mature both in concept and delivery. And some of the classics that we only see in art books. This museum is actually the home of Almeda and is worth seeing in its own right. We at lunch in a charming glassed in enclosure that has views of intimate gardens and a hint of what is just beyond, which looked suspiciously like a pool area with tennis courts. It was her hacienda and it now houses educational facilities taking place in grand outbuildings as well as her gracious mansion where so much of her artwork is housed. This is a place to which I would definitely like to return.

Last on our list was the "Home" designed by Diego Riviera to house his work. It is a fantasmagorical edifice built from volcanic rock quaried right on his own land. It's hard to describe because it doesn't resemble a home in any way and Riviera died before it was completely finished.

Friday, February 18, 2011 — A city of museums — what a gem!

I ended up at the Templo Mayor Y Museo today because I thought that was where I was meeting JP and Yael. Well, a little misunderstanding is something we can all manage once in a while. So I did this magnificent archaeological museum solo. I was moved to tears, the collection is so amazing and it is so magnificently installed. I've never seen such a gorgeous installation. This museum is built on the ruins of the ancient Aztec temple. Since 1978 they have been finding more and more artifacts to add to their already stunning array. I'm coming back armed with all the light weight literature I can find and will love sharing it with some of you.

I spent some time outside the entrance to this great place and watched huge numbers of students and their teachers or stewards being welcomed by the museum staff at the door. No chicle! Every tenth or so entrant walked over to the disposal can and relieved himself of a wad of gum. The usual rambunctious students were well in evidence as they danced compulsively or whirled around. Still.... I have never seen such beautiful young people, all in different good looking uniforms, eager to enter this hallowed building. They were so well behaved, so interested looking and evidently so well prepared for what they were going to see. I was impressed and more than a little sad that I don't always see these kinds of scenes at home as much as I see here or in France. They are avid note takers, copying what they have time for from the helpful, really informative placards.

I practically fell asleep yesterday before I could tell you that I visited the Museo de Arte Popular. They have, among other things, a Beetle/Volkswagen completely covered in beads by the Huichol indians who make wondrous artifacts using beads and bees' wax. At the opening at Sandra's I met a woman who is paid by the government to consult with the Huichol indian women of Nayarit. Sandra works for the same governmental agency and is soon scheduled to work with some women in Dorango. I didn't see the Huichol demonstrating yesterday, but I have seen them in Yelapa and they demonstrate amazing ability to focus and concentrate in the midst of all kinds of distractions.

Twice this afternoon after the museum, I walked through a magical market of indian wares. I bought a shaker instrument and a medium sized set of pipes, two necklaces made from beautiful green beads. Sandra Lindstrom gets one of them and who knows about the other. Also bought "dream catcher" earrings for Kathy and me. The second time I went there I watched the Aztec dancers for a long time and actually made several recordings to share with you. They are really quite something. Toward the end of my stay a fourish year old girl child danced with them and it's hard not to crack up as she mimicks the steps. Her dad was nearby watching very proudly. It is definitely enough to fill your hear.

Buenos noches quieridos amigos.

Thursday, February 17, 2011 — In Mexico City after an all night drive

We left Vallarta just after 7:00 p.m. and felt almost immediately that we were in good hands. The bus was luxus with tv screens at each seat and two of the most commodious and well designed banos at the back of the bus. I kept looking for Lo de Marcos along the way for the first hour but never saw it. Elaine has just built a duplex with her son and partner. Her side is finished and sounds comfortable and artful. Her son's side is yet to be completed. Back to the ride.

Almost immediately we began climbing the hills and for as long as I could see anything, it looked very inviting. The driver was obviously very competent and it had been a long day for many so people began to lower their seats to an amazingly low level and fall asleep. I was so taken with the country and the construction of the highway that I didn't try to sleep until about 11:30 and only slept fitfully for a while. At some time I obviously did fall asleep because at 3:00 I awoke. There was a constantly changing clock with elevation, time and temperature of the interior of the bus. I opened my eyes and looked out my window without curtains and couldn't believe my eyes. There was snow on the ground and the bus driver or his computer had turned the heat up which I could really feel at foot level. He was also driving slower than he had been even though the road itself was quite well cleared. There was about a 6-8 inch covering at the side of the road and the whole landscape was white with mottled white raching down the road cuts. I was absolutely wide eyed. You would think I had never seen snow before. I just kept looking to see how long it would last and we'd go down a bit and there'd be a little less and then we'd go up and there'd be more. I could just hear Kathy saying, " Well, of course, Dad's up there providing snow for your entertainment and to let you know he's right there with you."

Eventually I did sleep several hours before we reached the outskirts of Mexico City. We took two taxis to our hotel and of course it was too early for the rooms to be ready. One of the taxis arrived 15 minutes before the other. I was in the second and it was pure chaos at the registration desk. We all decided to have breakfast at the hotel buffet since we hadn't really had any dinner but the dry ham and cheese sandwich and chips provided most of which went uneaten. The buffet at Hotel Cathedral was amazing. Besides all the Mexican dishes you might expect them to serve, there were tender chicken slivers, steamed vegetables and many other healthful choices. What a joy.

By about 10:00 we headed out on foot to find the cafe where our show was to open tonight. It was some distance and since I didn't have a room yet, I had to carry my sling bag with all the extras for the trip in it. That soon became tiresome and I stopped at a few park benches along the way to sit in the shade. Yael stayed with me while JP forged on ahead to find Sandra's eatery. As Yael and I sat talking, Sandra came bouncing across the street from a slightly different direction than we had surmised from the map. Big hugs and welcome. We walked over to her place and about ten minutes later JP and his followers showed up. They helped her open up the security fold up door and her delightful place was unveiled. Though we really had too many cooks in the kitchen so to speak, the show was hung in fairly short order and looks super.

We all went in different directions then and I walked back across the street to the park and sat on a bench and just peered at all that was going on. I read my Kindle for a bit, (now at 65%) and took a few pictures of a lovely old carousel and some distant jacaranda trees. Then loud noises began coming down the street and I did a short film of a peaceful but vociferous marching protest with a constant voicing at high volume of the many complaints. They were headed with a red truck and then all the following participants carried red flags. Later I saw them again only a short way down the block stating their case within the park.

There's more to today. Very long. Great opening! But I'm too tired to go on so I'll continue tomorrow and try to give you a few pics. I am already quite fond of Mexico City so there are many positive things to tell. Buenos noches mi amigos.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011 — All the weaving is finished

Kissiah, Lynn and Elaine left at various times this morning. I actually rose at 4:15 in order to have a cup of tea with Lynn before she was picked up by her taxi at 5:00 by Eli, the same driver who once helped me get to Hacienda Divisidero when I left my "special" knit sweater there. She should be well back to Virginia by now, watching over her sheep flock and the building of her formidable new home. Elaine and her Don will meet the rest of us at the main bus depot in Puerto Vallarta tomorrow at about 6:00 p.m. We take off at 7:00 and head out toward several coastal towns and then catch the main highway that goes through Guadelajara. We arrive in Mexico City just after 6:00 a.m. My first trip on one of these so called luxus overnight buses. I have reserved a single wide seat. I'll let you know if that was a wise choice or not. There is a full moon tonight so it ought to be nice tomorrow night. How can I miss?

I'm waiting until tomorrow to actually pack so that things don't suffer too badly from packing pressure. I'm going to try to do this trip with just a shoulder bag and my new computer bag with its small overnight space. Let you know about that too. We're going to see each other in the same clothes quite a bit, but most of us are in the same boat. Everyone wants to come home with a Zapotec rug from Oaxaca, but I can't quite figure out how I can manage that. We'll see if the motivation eventually solves the mystery of where to put one.

I looked up the weather in Mexico City and it appears to be warming from what we were initially prepared to face. Highs this week in the upper 70's and nights in the mid to high 40's. Lots of discussions now about where we will spend our time. I've never been there so it all sounds good to me. I'll keep you posted.

I'm beginning to feel the effects of the 4:15 rising so I'm going to pass on the movie my compadres seem to be watching downstairs. I'm off to the "cell" for a good night's sleep.

Monday, February 14, 2011 — Much Valentine celebration in El Tuito plaza

The center of town is filled with special balloons dedicated to Valentine's Day. Seems to be a really big thing here. Today Chayo gave each of us a bracelet with our name embroidered on a background band. They were made by her son, Ramses, a handsome fifteen year old who evidently is the best student in his class. They are so sweet and all done in different colors. My band is black with pink stylized embroidery. What a clever one he is growing up to be. And no wonder. His parents are both very smart and extremely creative. When I first taught some of the locals to weave on the harness loom, Primo, (Ramses' father and Chayo's husband) was the first to grasp every aspect all through the process. Now Chayo weaves marvelous shawls and scarves and sells them quite regularly. We did this at the gallery across from the plaza that Jean Pierre and others organized and manned some years ago. The rent eventually became prohibitive and the gallery no longer exists. But Chayo keeps weaving and Primo continues to do a dozen different things requiring a multitude of skills.

Work here continues to be wrapped up and order is slowly appearing on a few desk tops. An envelope of gratitude pesos will be given to Chayo and Conchita this evening because the earliest pickup for a student to the airport will take place at 5:00 a.m. tomorrow morning. The rest will leave at various times during the morning. Elaine will leave with the morning group even though she is doing the Mexico City trip with us. She will sleep in her new, freshly built casita in Lo de Marcos for one night and then she and her partner, Don, will meet us at the Central Bus Station Wednesday afternoon. The pictures we've been seeing of the interior of the new Mexican quarters look so warm and inviting. The shutters are made of the same wood as the Larochette dining table and chairs.

We will leave Puerto Vallarta Wednesday at 7:00 p.m. and arrive in Mexico City about the same time the next morning. I haven't seen the interior of one of these buses but they are supposed to be quite nice. I'll let you know in a couple of days. I have a two way ticket so at least I don't have to set foot in a Walmart again.

Chayo is charring some beautiful Poblano type peppers on the stove top down stairs and you can smell the aroma over the whole house. Heaven. This can mean one thing only. To celebrate the last evening all together, we'll be having chile rellenos. Who could possibly complain.

Sunday February 13, 2011 — Happy Valentine ya'll

Happy Birthday to Skip. Before I say another word I want to wish all my friends, family and especially my four wonderful grandchildren a happy Valentine's Day. I must sometimes seem almost as unceremonious as Skip and have been known more than once to forget this event unless we are all getting together for the "brothers' birthday" celebration. So I'm trying to turn over a new leaf. There are never too many excuses to say, "I love you."

We had another lecture period this morning and it was full of gems. I'll share it with the tapestry study group when I get home. We discussed the names of our favorite tapestries from various time periods as well as our favorites of our own tapestries if we wished to. We talked more about the metaphors and symbols associated with the designing, weaving and studying of tapestry. There was lots of give and take as well as Eureka moments. JP stressed the special importance and benefits of thinking about the philosophy behind designing and weaving small format tapestries. They are such a direct manifestation of the urge to tell about a moment or a story. We talked about the origin of words that lead one back to "tapestry." After much thought, it often feels that those of us who get involved in this area simply do it because we must have our hands, minds and hearts involved in warps and wefts. Who knows — there might be another "sit down" discussion tomorrow morning. There seems to be no end to what we might explore. Of course we are all deeply aware of the possible finality of bringing this nine year period of study to a pause, permanent or not.......

Those in this group who are not heading for Mexico City, will be leaving on Tuesday morning. I'll be sorry to say goodbye to them. I have particularly enjoyed having Kissiah with us during both sessions this year. Skip enjoyed her special Texas humor when she traveled with us to France for our tapestry tour with the Larochettes some years ago. I think she grows sharper and funnier each year and I'll really miss her. She has some special insights and I appreciate the sharing that has taken place this year. Her weaving skills have taken a giant leap forward also. It must be so satisfying for JP and Yael to be able to witness and contribute to this kind of growth in all the individuals involved in these retreats. What great mentors they continue to be for all of us.

February 12, 2011 — Back at work and finishing up

The studio is fully back to work even though it is Saturday. Projects are being finished and more than one unveiling has taken place. I just finished my three part project and plan to do a few technical experiments at the end of the warp before cutting off.

Jean Pierre and Yael finished up their lecture series this morning with a great demo of how Yael goes about creating her cartoons. We also discussed earlier modes of designing versus current trends. The prevalence of small format tapestries being created introduces many changes for the designer/weaver. We also discussed copyright policies and contract issues. It was a good way to wrap up the discussions for a very special last session. Have I mentioned that the Larochettes are going to take at least a two year vacation from these retreats. They definitely deserve a rest from all this effort, but we're all going to miss it. The trip to Mexico City is a super way for eight of us to celebrate and finish up. The partner of one of our group from Canada is going to join us so JP will have some male companionship to fall back on if we get to be too much for him.

In the early days of these workshops we used to spend some time having meals at "Altamira," a charming partially outdoor restaurant several miles to the south of town. Sadly, the property was sold and the whole place has been turned into a Disney Land type group of buildings with a high security wall surrounding the entire parcel. We've heard not so great reports about the food being served there now, but we've decided to give it a try tomorrow for Sunday late lunch. If there is no alternative to valet parking or if the atmosphere isn't up to JP's standard I actually suspect we'll make a fast retreat to town and have lunch at Mario's. Will keep you posted with the details.

Thanks for your nice comments Nancy and Elke. So good to hear from you. And thanks for the book and recipe links, Nancy. The reports from Fort Bragg regarding the last details left undone when I left for Mexico are really good. I left a checklist of things that needed to be done before we would pay the last five thousand dollars. I've just been told that everything on the list has been done and that the driveway has been very nicely rerocked. If you're reading, Mary or Bryan, THANKS SO MUCH! So now we have our own little textile arts campus. Karen and Roberta have been reporting back to me about the progress being made in taking out the carpeting in the new library and the larger classroom. They've done the small room off the library and are about to start on the library. Thanks guys. I really appreciate it and it will make it so much easier when Stephan and I get to work on the Baltic birch floor we want to install before moving the bookshelves and looms in. This will help distribute the weight of these heavy items. Most of you have heard of all the musical chairs type activities that will take place as we move the books from their present location and the looms into the large classroom. It's been a long time in coming and we are so grateful to those who have made donations to this cause.

It's odd to be thinking about these things that I've been so obsessed with at home. Being down here has given me just the rest from the project that I needed. I'll be ready to work on that floor the minute I get back. We're beginning to think about how light we can travel and what we'll take with us for the trip. I'm back to feeling positive and good about it all today. The weather is turning warm here so we hope it won't be too cold in Mexico City.

Friday, February 11, 2011 — Dear Skip —

Dear Skip, As this day approached, I planned to omit mentioning its significance. But after a few good cries in the early morning, I began mentally composing a letter to you. I am so grateful to Patty for passing on your positive and encouraging messages. They help immeasurably. At breakfast I wasn't sure I could hold myself together but a lecture on cartooning by JP and Yael has managed to divert my attention. At the end of the talk, four people from Vallarta came to visit and ask for advice on conserving a woven rug they own. They called just before they arrived (this is the cell phone age) and it turned out to be two women I had met the night of the opening at the Peter Gray museum along with their husbands. Very nice to see them again. I can use every positive event I can get today.

As I lay in bed early this morning, the tears began and I just let them flow. My thinking was that you would say, "Just get on with it, you're doing fine" as all your messages infer. Knowing what an unceremonious person you were in life, you would say "Enough already." But I couldn't stop thinking about you and how communicative our relationship was even when it was hard for you. At one point the tears subsided and I could only hear the roosters of El Tuito and it made me think of their constant talking to each other. They are different than the roosters in other places even in Mexico. They are missing the "doo" at the end of cocka doodle doo. So you could tell an El Tuito rooster anywhere. When we were down the coast at Villa Polonesia yesterday I mostly swam and listened to the birds. I think the birds of Mexico are more communicative and joyful than any other place I know. Just like the people of Mexico. I'm sure you know by now why I love to come down here and will continue to do so even though you are gone.

You undoubtedly know how lucky I am to have such loving and supportive people around me. Between our family and friends I receive a huge amount of comfort and encouragement. I promise you I will continue to work hard at reaching an equilibrium in all ways including a shedding of the extra weight. I thank you for leaving me with so many advantages including two steadfast canine friends, beautiful family and joyful memories. I will try to live the rest of my life to the fullest, with joy and love in my heart.

Thursday, February 10, 2011 — High tide coming in

Sorry I haven't written for several days. It's been a busy time. Jean Pierre and I went to Vallarta yesterday to pick up Mimi, the last missing member of our second session. She is also going to join us for the Mexico City leg of the journey and couldn't get off work until this time. The pick-up was successful and we proceeded to a rule breaker for me. I unceremoniously lost my Walmart virginity. The easiest, and possibly only, place to reserve and pay for our bus tickets for the trip to Mexico City on February 16 is to go to the big box chain in which I had never set foot. Well, almost all rules are made to be broken once in a while. Mimi and I were the last to be ticketed and we learned that our little group of eight are so far only joined on the bus by two other people.

JP and Yael had held off our overnight beach trip for this session until yesterday so that Mimi could be with us. So midmorning we took off in two cars with JP driving the van and I driving the Explorer. It was a very easy trip down to Punta Perula where we had lunch. I had a seafood soup that was really tasty and dominated by very tender chunks of octopus. We finished up with two coffee flans for the table and drove for about ten minutes more down the highway to Villa Polonesia. I had the best swim I've had since leaving home, spending almost two hours in their charming pool. I did simple water exercises before getting up the nerve to try some laps without that trusty black line on the bottom of the pool that I'm so dependent upon. Much to my surprise and delight, I discovered that I could see my way easily due to the grout lines in the tiles that line the bottom. After that, it was sheer heaven and I had a hard time making myself finally get out at about five o'clock. Took a shower in an enclosure which has a door that can't be closed and won't stay fully open either. So it was scrub, scrub, bash the door back, scrub, rinse, bash the door until pool chemicals were fully washed out of my hair. We made sandwiches in a delightfully appointed kitchen area and had great conversation into the night. This whole little compound that we're at is one of several large palapas with group areas, an eating table in the center and bedrooms along the eastern exterior. Donna and I have a large room at the northern end and were happily settling in when she discovered that there were hundreds of tiny little golden beige ants all over the head of her bed. The proper authorities were called in and I must admit that a spray can with supposedly "safe for humans" product was finally used successfully on the critters. We left the door open for a few hours to get rid of any smell and had a fine night's sleep. We both awakened very early to the sound of a rapidly rising tide. We've been out here on the edge of the palapa watching the light change and welcoming others as they join us. Mimi is now drawing feverishly. She's designing her tapestry which features a hand image and which she'll warp up the minute we get back.

We have eight days before we leave for Mexico City. Yesterday Yael almost didn't come with us because she's been fighting off a respiratory infection and she seemed quite weakened. But at the last minute she decided to come and JP just said that she had a very good night's sleep. Thank heavens. She sounds like she may be on the mend, finally. I certainly hope so because we all know there will be some pollution when we reach our destination. The eight of us are so looking forward to all the things we're going to see and the showing of our tapestries in Mexico City and Oaxaca. Elaine knows a super guide who gets into all sorts of nooks and crannies and we're beginning to sign up for a few day trips with him. So now you know why I've stayed off line for a few days. I so appreciate those of you who have inquired, including the ones who wrote to Christine to see if I was OK. All's well and I love every one of you.

Friday, February 4, 2011 — Last retreat before a pause

Jean Pierre and Yael sat down with the new group this morning and announced that this will be the 9th and last tapestry retreat here in El Tuito until further notice. It's been such a good run and such a privilege to have been part of this series of workshop/retreats.

We talked a lot today about the new focus provided in this morning's session. The idea of offerings, a sentiment with universal meaning, will be explored. Paying tribute is another key sentiment to be incorporated. In many traditions paying tribute means to render ones gratitude or to participate in honoring. We discussed various aspects of "memory." We will just have to place one foot in front of the other and see where this leads us. Now that I better understand where Jean Pierre is trying to lead this exploring, I feel much better about it and certainly feel that during this transition time in my life, it will be a worthwhile avenue to pursue. Because the subject matters will be dramatically more personal in these tapestries, JP would like us to follow the practice of writing a fifty word explanation of our works and placing them adjacent to the tapestries when they are exhibited.

Dinner tonight was a gorgeous fish filet topped with lemon, tomato and dill. Each serving was wrapped and tied in a banana leaf and steamed to perfection. Jean Pierre made his famous frozen banana with Kahlua dessert. Oh, how we are suffering.

Thursday, February 3, 2011 — A big endorphin night

I am not actually a big fan of gallery or museum openings. But last night's opening at the Peter Gray Museum was a giant exception to that rule. It was a beautiful, joyful and highly stimulating event. I felt so honored and appreciated. People there were unbelievably enthusiastic about the whole show and complimentary to us personally. The minute I revealed my name, some would tell me how much they liked my work and which pieces they most appreciated. One woman approached me, asked me if I were Jackie Wollenberg and then proceeded to rave about "Monday Morning In Yelapa." How can you not be on a high under these circumstances.

The event extras featured appetizers all created with corn as an ingredients and oh, so yummy. Lovely wine and fruit drinks were served with grace and style. A welcoming ceremony covered the map with honoring tributes and poetic introductions to the subject of tapestry by Jean Pierre, Bill McGrail and other museum officials. Each of the tapestry weavers showing in the exhibition was introduced to the guests and was presented with a little gift of a fascinating book about Puerto Vallarta and a handy little, locally produced calendar. This part of the ceremony took place outdoors on a pleasant terrace/porch. After that, the group moved en masse in to the exhibit area where Jean Pierre and Gabriel Canales provided highly entertaining enlightenment about tapestry, ably translated by Sarah Swett who read the translations with terrific thespian charm and projection.

I won't go into great detail describing the exhibit because I did that several days ago. One noticeable difference between then and now is the presence of red stickers on all five of JP's small format pieces. I was glad that I hadn't offered "Water Melon" and "Monday Morning in Yelapa" for sale. Comments made to me indicated that they would probably have sold. I did promise one woman that I would consider weaving a new edition of "Water Melon." Eventually there was a virtual frenzy among patrons to buy up JP's pieces. There were also many conversations regarding possible sales of Larochette "Water Song" pieces. This was an active and incredibly appreciative crowd. Many faces were there to be seen during the entire evening.

Because there was a change of the guard for class participants last night also, there were lots of fond farewells between weavers. Sadly, Gabriel had to rush right back the next morning to Guadalajara to do one of his radio programs and only three of us are staying over from the last session to this. Jean Pierre and Pedrito are in Vallarta picking up the new members now. When they arrive and get settled, we will all celebrate getting together by walking to the plaza and having a late lunch at Mario's.

Last night Kissiah and I rode home in the car with Pedrito. It was a relaxed trip with a clear sky above and many stars. Kissiah, who was sitting in the back seat, couldn't stop trying to ask Petrito if we didn't have baked goods in the car. She kept smelling something yummy and couldn't get if off her mind. Lots of great Texas humor pours out of this amusing lady at times like that. It turns out that there were three loaves of freshly baked bread in the far back of the car. So Kissiah was right all along. We joined Jean Pierre and Yael at the house when we arrived and proceeded to enjoy snacks, tea, raicilla, scotch, and a fruit liquor I couldn't possibly spell. Add to that a bit of hilarious conversation, becoming more so as the raicilla disappeared and you have a priceless finish to an unforgettable night.

Wednesday, February, 2, 2011 — Happy Birthday Chuc

Well, here it is — Chuck's birthday is today. Groundhog's Day has always been on our minds in the Wollenberg family because of the special tone Chuck's birthday adds to the day. Sorry we're not all there to help you celebrate, but we're all doing it on our own. Feliz Cumpleano.

Last night I took a vacation from the Brothers K. and dipped into a book that one of our classmates shared with us. It is titled, "The Confident Creative." I had planned to just take a peak at it but once in, I couldn't put it down. It includes a very thought provoking introduction by the author. The illustrations actually translate quite well on the Kindle, which is not the case with all books transferred over by their duplicating method. This a book about drawing and how it affects an indivual's life. It is about seeing and freeing one's self.

Just before I fell asleep I came upon a paragraph referring to Akira Kurosawa that resonated so completely with my inner convictions of long standing. I'm going to reproduce it for you because it says so much about how I feel. I have always thought that when people fall prey to fear or anger or any other strong emotion in a complete fall apart fashion, they become incapacitated. That runs against all my survival instincts. Here's what this book says about Kurosawa's take and how it came to be.

"The great Japanese film director, kurosawa once said, 'An artist is someone who never averts his eyes.' In 1923, the Kanto earthquake killed 100,000 people and destroyed Tokyo. Kurosawa was 13 years old and walked amongst the devastation of human and animal corpses. When he tried to turn away his older brother instructed him not to avert his eyes. As a result, Kurosawa came to believe in fear as a teacher. As artists we're building our courage, and drawing can be a great teacher. It teaches us to look no matter what's going on, and it uncovers all the shadowy, hidden places in our heart that want to come up into the light."

We're weaving up to the last minute, then leaving at 2:00 in the afternoon for Puerto Vallarta.

I'll say, "Chao" for now and say a word or two about the opening when we return from the opening.......... I'm back and it's the next day after the best opening I've ever attended. Check next blog for details. Love you.

Tuesday, February 1, 2011 — Wollenberg brothers' birthday month

February has always been a festive month in our family. Skip and Chuck both had their birthdays in the first half of the month. Our birthday celebrations have tended to carry on for several weeks if not the whole month for various reasons. Sometimes it was impossible for all to congregate at the same place on certain dates. And for other reasons they just kept on going.

Chuck comes first on February 2nd. That's groundhog's day. So of course we all watched for shadows or not and had a good time all round with speculations and predictions. Skip's birthday was on February 13th just before Valentine's day and that was often when we did a dual celebration for the two brothers. Since we moved from the Bay Area we were more prone to celebrate in Fort Bragg in the middle of the month. Chuck doesn't leave Berkeley all that often so we've always felt happy to have that time of the year come around.

Tomorrow is Chuck's birthday. So Chuck, HAPPY BIRTHDAY! Thank you so much for all that you do for the whole family. You have always been such a fantastic uncle to our children and grandchildren. Never a day goes by that we are not appreciative of your input, kindness and generosity. Hope you have a great celebration up there in the States. Your birthday book will appear sometime in March. Par for the course, eh? Seriously, have a good one.

The picture for tonight is a good example of the brothers giving of their time. For the last few years Lisa has been editing the "Rubber Boa," a newsletter about Echo Lake activities and environmental concerns. I volunteered to do the digital formatting and the brothers Wollenberg generously gave of their time doing some editing. This gathering has become a great excuse for getting together with our friends from the hills away from Echo while at the same time, concentrating on Echo concerns. A good time is had by all.

This wonderful workshop/retreat at Casa Tejedora is coming to an end tomorrow. We will meet the members of the next session tomorrow night at the festive opening of our Maiz exhibition at the Peter Gray Museum in Puerto Vallarta. Three of us are participating in the next session. The current group and gathering with Sarah Swett would be hard to beat. As some of you have read, it's been a very thought provoking experience for all. We've loved having Sarah here and we all celebrate the success of the work coming forth as a result of her efforts. We've also been thrilled to get to know our Brazilian member, here for the first time. Elke Hulse has added so much to our group. Her presence has been pure delight. She wove and designed like a steam engine, cutting off before anyone and sharing so many thoughts and descriptions of her work in Brazil. Thank you for being with us, Elke. Nancy is also ready to cut off tomorrow morning with two pieces, one beautiful piece featuring an acorn image. Nancy, it was so great to have you here sitting right behind me. I can't say enough about how grateful I am to this group for just being who they are. Jean Pierre and Yael have somehow done it again.

These times in El Tuito are so special in my life. This one in particular is turning out to be pivotal to my emotional good health. I can't think of a more nurturing environment or a better place from which to embark on my new life.