Monday, February 21, 2011 — Off to Teotitlan de Valle

Elaine had arrange for us to be picked up at 9:00 by Eric, an extremely knowledgeable tour guide. During the day we learned only a little about this well informed ex-pat, but he was more than generous with his facts, experiences and inside stories about Oaxaca and environs. He obviously gained entry for us to places we might well not have otherwise seen.

As soon as we turned off of the main highway to start up the hill into this village of superb weavers, we could tell that we were entering an unforgettable place. We drove up to a high spot with an inspiring view of the valley and lower part of the town. There, we pulled into an unused parking area devoted to a beautifully situated but currently abandoned bed and breakfast. We all got out of the van and made ourselves comfortable to hear what promised to be a half hour history and ethnological info lecture which included a brief description of the role played by the Oaxan people from very early times. We were given some basic hints about proper behavior and manners that would be appreciated by the amazing people we were about to visit.

our first visit was to a large compound featuring a full scale precision dyeing facility using Ciba Gygy acid dyes that is also a thriving weaving studio specializing in large and small Zapotec rugs. We were allowed to photograph anything and ask questions of the weavers ourselves or when that didn't quite work out, have Eric pass on our requests. Every phase of the processes taking place at this site was generously shared with us, including different color and form joinings, post cut-off practices and any finishing questions we came up with. Lastly, we were led down to the show room where Mimi immediately fell in love with a gorgeous large rug. While she was making her decision of whether or not to buy this beautiful weaving, mescal made by the family was served to all who wished to partake. I suspect that doesn't hurt to loosen up the pocket books and complete sales. It was very pure tasting and I thoroughly enjoyed my sample. Mimi decided to buy and we were off and running.

Next, we drove down the hill to a very special women's project to hear an overview of. It turned out that this is the same Womens' group that we had been visited by at the Mendocino Art Center several years ago. They are a truly admirable group I will try to describe in a later entry. I bought a banner and a rug that is destined for placement in the pond house. I was so happy to receive a clearer understanding of the goals and scope of activities of this admirable group of women. We agreed that Pacific Textile Arts and the Womens' group will maintain contact with each other and perhaps embark on some mutual projects. There is much that we can learn from them and working on some projects together could be mutually beneficial.

We moved further on down the steep hill and arrived at a candle making household. Entry into this magical courtyard put us in the midst of fruit trees, turkeys, both adult and junior (they are so cute), and we were warmly greeted by the candle maker and one of her small daughters. We were led into a shed area where a small fire was heating several pots and partially completed candles were hanging. Our hostess demonstrated and answered many questions about the process of making all sizes of candles. Then she showed us her methods of making elaborate flowers for decorating some of the candles. It seems that they are a required item at the time of an engagement or rather at the time during which negotiations for an engagement are arranged. The more and the better the candles and their adornments, the more productive the deal for the leason. Fascinating.

We moved to another area where there were gigantic candles hanging. These are quite valuable and used for very special ceremonial purposes. All the candles are made of bees' wax and I later spoke with several people who keep bees. So that answered the question many of us had.

Lunch at another weaving household followed the candles. This, like so many we visited, was a multi-generational operation and after greetings, we moved on to where Abuelita (Grandma) was making large red tortillas over an outdoor stove. They showed us the whole process including the use of lime to add the proper qualities for creating a complete protein. We watched this warm and friendly woman begin "spreading clamp" and finally to the special tortilla cooking pan. We moved on to the table which had been prepared for us and ate a fabulous meal of vegetable soup containing some veggies I knew and some nettle like greens I didn't recognize. It was delicious. Next came a mole with a large hunk of chicken. It was the first time I have actually tasted a small clump of Mexican chocolate in a mole. It was like finding the golden ring while riding on the merry go round, A semi-sweet gorbanza dessert finished the meal and several fruit drinks furnished the "bebidas."

We departed giving muchisimos gracias and drove further down to the valley flats in the town. Our destination was the home and workplace of a couple who weave and do a great deal of natural dyeing. Gracious Maria gave us a marvelous talk about the available plant and insect dyes used by her husband. There were numerous natural dyers among us so this was absolutely fascinating. She demonstrated her cochenille grinding and preparation on a flat stone. I had learned to do this in Denmark with a morter and pestle and obviously this is quite an improvement to what I had learned. Many other plants and materials were discussed and the yarn skein results were viewed before we moved into the showroom where more than one person succumbed to the purchase of another rug. I bought two copies of a book this couple has had written about their work — one for me and one for Pacific Textile Arts. They were taken from me and I followed Maria as she took the books into the weaving studio for her husband to sign. They think of everything.

A visit to a local cathedral completed this enormously educational and pleasurable tour with the most well informed, empathetic and enthusiastic guide I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. I also very much appreciate the fact that he has a firm policy of not taking "kickbacks" from the artists he takes people to. This is evidently rare and ensures the traveler a "fair" price when they are purchasing. Safe journey back to Oaxaca City and a successful search for a good place to eat ended the day.